Heading for the high country...

On to Moldavia and Bacau County! Early in July we Peace Corps trainees learned where we will live for the next two years. The site

announcement

ceremony

took place at our training school, complete with the

U.S. Ambassador to Romania, his wife, son and grandson present. For the most part, we have been placed in small rural villages or comunas (a grouping of even smaller villages), many in Moldavia, the northeast part of the country and the poorest region. I received a packet and parcel of photos and gifts from my community and my counterpart. What a welcome, indeed! I knew it would suit me to a T...a small community of 3800 persons in the foothills of the Carpathian mountains teaching English to grades 3-8!

My counterpart (a person assigned by the host school), Anca, a young woman born and raised in my host town, has taught English there for six years. We met, as did all trainees and their counterparts, at a three day conference ten days ago where we learned about each other and how we work together. Then she and I traveled by car back to our community, a nine hour trip because we stopped to tour Peles Castle, summer home of King Carol I.

In my little town I spent three days being squired around by Anca and Domnul Director (head of the school) getting acquainted with the people and the area. The people are so very welcoming and friendly. It's also clear that I am an oddity in the neighborhood...I feel right at home! ;=)

I'm highly motivated to conquer this language now; Anca is the ONLY person in the village that speaks English (in addition to the students who are learning from Anca, of course.) Not my gazda, not Domnul Director, not the mayor, not the store keeper. Talking to myself is not a whole lot of fun; besides, I've heard it all before! And poor Anca needs a break from all the interpreting she did for me for three days! And knowing me, I'll misplace my roman/anglais dictionary before you know it. Peace Corps will pay for tutoring for six months; I'll line him/her up at the first opportunity!

Wow! I'll be living a "Heidi" life! It's true! Upon stepping outside for my morning coffee I heard the faint tinkle of cowbells as the cows worked their way up the mountain to their grazing pastures. And in the evening the cows wander down the road to home. Proof positive, the night before, my host Marius brought in a large bucket of fresh milk.

I passed up the offer to have some. That morning Marius, his girl friend and I climbed the nearby mountain/hill, Marius pulling me up the steep and muddy parts. I fell only twice coming down! We met the cows and shepherd dog guarding them at the top. Nuf said! I don't mingle with dogs who say "no closer".

Living with a gazda family during training has been such a positive experience I chose to live with a gazda again. I have not met my gazda yet; her son, a student of Orthodox Theology, and his girl friend, were my hosts at her home for the visit. However I brought much "stuff" with me by car so it is now waiting to be unpacked in my bedroom. The rest will come with me when I make my move permanent on August 7.

In spite of the fact that this will be such a different way of life for me (it is NOT rural Ohio) some things remain the same: there are gracious people all over the world, our needs and wants we share in common. In spite of the language differences somehow we found a way to enjoy each other's company through a lot of gestures and had many laughs together...yes, with the Domnul Premari (mayor) and Domnul Director too. There was time to reflect while I was there and I became aware that I felt a little more at "home" each day. It will be good!

Now...for two weeks more of training and planning ahead. We have a final language assessment to determine of level of proficiency and then we become sworn in as Peace Corps Volunteers, no longer trainees! This ceremony will be at the Ambassador's residence in Bucharest on August 6. It's a big, big deal! Our gazdas will come by charter bus too. Bring tissues!

How I shall miss my gazda family! They have been so gracious, generous, hospitable and lots of fun. I count on seeing them several times while in Romania, even though I shall be a great distance from their home.

So...training is winding down. It has been hard work, make no mistake. But the staff is excellent and our group of trainees, if I do say so myself, is exceptional! Onward and upward!

Over the hump....dromedary or bactrian?

This weekend, the end of the sixth week, the 4th of July weekend, brings us to the downward slope...but there's no coasting! As trainees, we just completed two weeks of Practicum, practice teaching. The local schools had enlisted students, grades 3 through 10, who wished to experience a week of learning English with volunteer American teachers. Some 850 children signed up from our town and nearby villages. Emily and I taught 6th grade one week and 4th the next. The children were eager, energetic, delightful learners. Some logistical nightmare for the Peace Corps staff to set up 17 classes taught by 2-3 trainees...twice! About 425 students participated each week.

A week in advance of those already stressful weeks we were advised that we would have "mid-term" language assessment on Monday of the second week of Practicum. Actually, it was fun and pleasant and need not have been the cause of stress but how can you tell us who are struggling to learn the language not to be concerned? The staff was assessing not how much we knew but how we can use the language in real life situations. If you like role playing and enjoy making fun with yourself and another, one can have a lot of fun. I did!

The pace of training continues to be intense with homework every night. I continue to be impressed with the staff and the organization and execution of our training. Volunteers in the field, last year's trainees, were here to help us through Practicum, first, by teaching skills they had learned and then observing and critiqueing our teaching. I found both to be particularly helpful, especially since Peace Corps' approach to TEFL is unique and proven to be very effective in the field.

Perhaps you are reading about the rains and floods in Romania. They are the heaviest and costliest in many years. The cost in Ron (their money) and damage to homes and lives and infrastructure has been immense. Here in our town it has rained for ten days, usually at night and/or when we are in school, and now the ten day forecast for early July is rain every day. And we are not in one of many counties where there is an alert for flooding.

All this rain has not been helpful to my gazdas garden which would grow more with a few hot days. But they still harvest an abundance of red raspberries, onions, garlic, small carrots and have picked clean two cherry trees and one more to go! The method of growing tomatoes is absolutely astounding to this "farmer" from Illinois and Ohio! You must see for yourself! About 250 plants are growing in an area of about 20 feet by 40 feet, planted about six inches a part in double rows. They grow "up" a narrow strip of nylon stocking anchored in the ground and tied to a steel cable supported the length of the row. (see photo of Cristi and Rodica in the garden) As the plants grow, the flexible nylon hose is wrapped around the tall plant and holds it vertically. Cucumber plants are growing up a grid next to a wall. The carrots continue to grow and are "thinned" as they grow so we have little carrots to eat continually. Intensive gardening! Absolutely nothing is wasted inside or outside the house. Scraps and leftover food as well as day old bread are the bulk of the dogs' diets. They have much to teach me!

Aha! This morning the tables were turned. I taught my gazda Rodica about oatmeal, an unknown to her. She is a FANTASTIC cook and I have loved almost everything she has served; the variety has been endless and I have eaten her food with gusto. So this a.m. I microwaved two bowls of oatmeal, one for her and one for me. She was very reluctant to try it but I insisted. The look of "oh no!" on her face was priceless! But she ate it, and ate it all...and gave it a "foarte bine"...very good!

Friday after school my gazdas and I went to the open market in the piata where fresh fruits and vegetable, meat and fish, fresh baked bread are sold. Here you can buy for the best prices. They showed me which shops they favor and we bought an abundance of fresh foods, some to make into salads to take to the 4th of July picnic which we trainees are having for our gazdas to celebrate the American holiday in a traditional way....a picnic! Today I went back to the market just to enjoy being among the people, marveling at the wonderful produce, and yes, eating a delicious rudare cu nare! (fresh baked roll with nuts). Cherries of all kinds are abundant in the market as are cucumbers, tomatoes, apricots. An interesting, arresting smell was fresh sauerkraut in large barrels...the whole head of cabbage! It is used for sarmale, a favorite food.

Next week will be a high point in our training: we shall learn where we shall live and teach for the next two years! We have had the opportunity to share what we prefer about where we teach and what level we teach but of course we are here because we have been asked to fill the needs that the Romanians have outlined. So their needs come before ours. Besides, what do I know about making such decisions! I defer to the organization which seems to be doing it right, as far as I am concerned.

Next! Where to??